Day 19 - Guatemala 2013

Buenas Noches!

Today was our first day in Xela. The official name for the city is Quetzaltenango, the second largest city in Guatemala behind Guatemala City. Xela is shortened from Xelaju (pronounced "Shey-la-hoo") the Myan name for the city. We are staying at the Hotel Villa Real Plaza right off the central plaza (parque). It is a wonderful area with many cultural spots within walking distance, not to mention lots of restaurants and cafes.

We explored the central cathedral, and the municipal building that had a beautiful garden area. We also went to the cultural museum that had a variety of information including Myan and colonial artifacts. Photos were not allowed but I did capture one picture of a tomb where they buried a prominent Myan. They always bury them in the fetal position and only prominent people in the community were buried all others were cremated....atleast that is the current understanding.

We then walked up to see the 2 theaters in the city: Theatre Municipal and Theatre Roma. Unfortunately, neither one has anything showing this weekend. I was hoping to maybe see a play or something, but that will have to be next trip! Only one was open to the public today because a graduation was going on in the Theatre Roma. After speaking to the locals we found out it was a university graduation. All family and friends were gathered outside after the ceremony so we had the opportunity to literally stand in the middle and be part of the culture....it was SO cool! I also got some great pictures of the local community. Side note: ice cream is a huge deal here and this event was like a carnival in the states. The ice cream boys were out selling and some were also selling cotton candy. Everyone was eating ice cream...everyone!

We had a lovely lunch at a restaurant off the plaza and shared a really unique vegetable pizza and red wine. We had a few textile cooperatives that we wanted to check out, but both were closed as it is Saturday. So we walked and walked around the plaza and surrounding areas and then had a coffee and enjoyed it in the plaza. I also called Adam for the first time and probably talked a bit long for the price of the call, but it was great to hear his voice!!!!!! Will be paying Gramma back for our 10 minute call!

We then came back and finally found online an open museum of art! I found it advertised online and we couldn't find anyone who knew what or where it was. We were persistent and finally found it. I am so glad we did. Walking in it is literally like a small studio with some art on the walls but most leaning on the floor. I read a magazine writer's review of it and he mentioned that Guatemala doesn't typically spend money for art and that the studio needs some updating and expansion. The gentleman that runs or owns it...not sure was, extremely kind and absolutely loved that we were interested in seeing the place. Now....as he was taking us around I saw a huge black rat run across the floor......like I said, it needs a little updating.

This gentleman is apparently a very well known artist but he was so down to earth and kept pulling more and more if his work out for us to see. He has been painting for years and mainly paints with acrylic and some oil. He was so humble and just simply enjoyed seeing us enjoy his work. He is probably in his early fifties and spent many years of his life producing art to be sold, but now he has created such a following in other countries that he will go for months at a time taking his art work and showing it all over the world. He said "I use to paint to sell, now I paint for pleasure." He says that he will be gone for months and only takes a thousand dollars with him and knows so many friends that invite him to stay that he doesn't have to spend any more than what he brings. Definitely an artist, free-living mentality. He was such a pleasant man and was so pleased that we liked his work.

To explain further, this man's painting are in famous art museums all over the world in France, England (Tate Gallery), Switzerland, Germany, Hungary, United States, all over Spain, and many more. He is REALLY good and he opened up many pieces of his work that he had rolled up....we probably saw atleast 20+ pieces of his work! His stories of his travels and mentality for art was fascinating. He also showed us where he teaches.....he has about 50 students that come for lessons, even young kiddos. He invited us to come see him teach on Monday morning and to have coffee with him and look at more art. I particularly fell in love with one of his pieces and asked if he would sell it......and he would. For how famous his paintings are, it is a very reasonable price.....but alas I had to come back and think about it. I can go back on Monday if we choose for coffee and more art work showings! I love art and I love getting to know the artist and the story behind the art! This was absolutely an experience I will never forget and placed it as one of my favorite moments of our trip.......I only wish Adam would have been there to share in the experience with us as he is my art-lover buddy!

We came back and had some hot chocolate on a rooftop terrace overlooking the plaza. The weather is much cooler here in the mountains and a hot beverage warmed us up! Tomorrow we have a tour at 8am that will take us to 3 or 4 different pueblos (small villages and colonial villages) outside the city to dig deep into the culture....O and it also takes us by natural hot springs! We are really excited!

Goodnight from chilly Xela,

Gramma & Kristin

 

Day 18 - Guatemala 2013

Hola!

This morning was our last day in Antigua. We travel by tour van to Xela today at 2:30pm (dos y media de la tarde)! We spent the morning by walking around Antigua and had a chance to visit a colonial convent with a very famous round dome with a variety of small rooms around it. This was a very interesting structure now renovated in areas for government offices. We later found out that these small rooms which we thought were dormitories for the nuns were actually places of punishment when the nuns did something wrong. Our thought was "what would a nun do to be punished." So we aren't positive if that was just a story or fact, we think it was where they prayed and did work or study, but certainly an interesting idea.

We also had the opportunity to visit a weaving museum where we got to see all the different types of textiles from all the different areas of the country. They are all distinct and have a variety of colors and patterns. I wasn't allowed to take pictures, but it was a very interesting museum. It described 3 different kinds of looms. The first was the waist loom that typically makes table runners and is limited by width. To create the shirts they basically make 2 identical table runner size weavings and sew them together. The woman we spoke with said it can take up to 3 days to simply prepare a waist loom with the background and to place the correct threads for the pattern. The waist loom has been used in precolonial times of the myans. The second loom was a large foot peddled loom which is typically used by men to make larger pieces like the fabric for women's skirts. This type of loom was introduced in colonial times by the Spanish. The third type was a mix between the waist and the peddled version but smaller and used mainly by women to make the head dressings. This art is not as popular as most women do not wear the head dressings on a daily basis. It was a really interesting museum and there was a ton of different fabrics, skirts, belts, art, and much more.

We then sat in the plaza and enjoyed the live music and people watching. Side note: we've sat at this plaza for 3 days and I just now noticed that the sculptures where bare breasted women.

We also walked by the large church La Merced....there was a graduation ceremony if some sort going on inside with beautiful music! Gramma likes this church because it looks like a wedding cake!

We also shared our last sangria in Antigua at a lovely little restaurant.

Our van picked us up around 2:30 and we arrived in Xela around 6:30pm. The van was the same type as our trip from Panajachel. The van only had 5 people in it, so about half full. Gramma leaned over to me and said she liked only having this many people and that we got lucky only having a few......so we ended up stopping at a texaco gas station for a bathroom break and came back to a full bus.....with a fussy baby right behind us! I'd say she jinxed it! We made it to the Hotel Villa Real Plaza which is right off the plaza! It is a lovely hotel with a lot of character. We are currently enjoying dinner at the hotel restaurant with some wonderful Guatemalan hot chocolate as the temperature here is cool. More pictures of the hotel tomorrow!

Buenos noches from Xela!

Gramma & Kristin