Europe 2014: Corinth & Nafplio

After a stressful day of traveling from Paros we finally ended up in Loutraki near the ancient site of Corinth. The hotel was nice and we stayed there one night. The next day we travelled on the bus, which always seems to end with the ticket lady screaming in Greek and us leaving the bus station with tickets with no real confirmation of where we might end up or when.

This time we did manage to make it to Corinth where we hired a taxi for the day (Sunday) to take us to Ancient Corinth and Nafplio, partly because we didn't want to deal with the hassle and uncertainty of the Sunday bus schedule or cranky Greek women behind bus ticket counters and partly because it was a fairly good deal and the Greek man was extremely nice and helpful! Despite some of those that find themselves in my commentaries .......most Greek people are extremely nice and helpful!

Ancient Corinth was just as amazing as I remembered it. There is something powerful about being in the place.....standing exactly in the spot where the Apostle Paul preached, converted many Greeks and Romans to Christianity, and was tried for his teachings. I found myself engaged in reading Paul's letters to the Corinthians and felt so much depth in his words. It is easy when standing in the middle of history to feel the reality and passion he must have had when writing his letters.

Corinth's fortress is basically a castle on top of a mountain, or so it felt as we hiked up to it. It was enormous and the remnants left of the fortress hinted at a MUCH larger complex than what is left. The views (see pictures below) were priceless.

O Nafplio....how I love thee! I have never been to Nafplio so it was a first time for both Adam and me. We absolutely loved this ocean town with its pedestrian streets, beautiful weather, sweet ocean breeze, and friendly homesteaders. We spent our first evening walking around the old town, about 2 km. With the warm ocean breeze in your hair and the sounds of children playing and couples romancing we fell in love from the moment we got out of the taxi. It was a charming city to say the least! We had many lovely dinners in the town...all traditional Greek cuisine with local wine from the region (Pelopenese). Our first full day we stayed around our lovely little attic apartment, did some laundry, and then Adam and I hiked up 999+ steps to the Palamidi fortress. This was a huge fortress and it took us upwards of 2 hours to take in the site up and down. Ok...we like to hike, but 999+ steps is a lot! We were huffing and puffing by the top and as we came back down our legs were literally fatiguing to the point of shaking.....so we relaxed the rest of the day! This region is also well known for its amazing orange groves and fresh orange juice.....you better believe we took advantage of that!

Kristin size........
Adam size.......
Adam has been taking pictures of every izard we come across for his brother Austin! This little guy was posing for us!

Day 2 Gramma, Adam, and I set out to see the ancient site of Mycenae and Epidarus. Everyone we spoke to said it couldn't be done in one day as they are both about an hour away from Nafplio on separate sides.......well we thought...let's try! We woke and caught the earliest bus at 10 to Mycenae, had about 2 hours to see the museum and site, caught the 1pm bus back to Nafplio.....caught the 2:30 bus to Epidarus and had over 3 hours to see the museum, theater, and archeological site. We did make every bus on time without major disruptions....we even had time to spare at both sites! I know......I'm as surprised as anyone after our experiences with the busses on Santorini. The fact that we made it to one site without being cursed at in Greek was surprise enough. Haha! All in all...we were tired at the end of the day but we felt great about what we got to see.

Our last morning in Nafplio, Adam and I got up and went on a run around the city and....yes.....climbed the 999 steps again. Crazy I know, but we had to do it. The run didn't completely wipe us out so we thought.....let's go for it. 10 steps in we were whistling...I mean wheezing a different tune..haha! We made it up all 999 steps and back down. The run and climb took us less than an hour! We felt AWESOME about our morning excursion and left Nafplio a bit tired, but accomplished and happy! O dear, beautiful Nafplio....we will miss thee.

We then travelled by bus to Olympia...it took us about 8 hours! We went from Nafplio to the Isthmus (Corinth Canal) to Pyrgos and finally to Olympia. Thank goodness the bus station in Olympia was literally across the street from our hotel. Yippee!!!!!!! We navigated the bus system correctly for the 2nd day in a row......... although not without Greek women yelling at us behind the ticket counter or bus drivers completely ignoring Gramma's attempts at communicating in their language.

It seems some don't like it when we speak English or Greek.......hmmmmmm French maybe? I fact, one woman in the ticket counter at the canal naturally spoke in a loud, mumbled, quick Greek cadence...one we honestly stared at for a few minutes trying to figure out what language she was even speaking. Picture Gramma and I AND luggage getting 3 tickets to Pyrgos with a line of older Greek women behind us in a busy bus station. The woman behind the counter starts out yelling in a mumbled tone and Gramma requests appropriately in Greek......clearer than the woman behind the counter I might add. Ok, we got the number and the location......now for the payment. They don't take credit cards......got that from the woman's violent head shake......ok, now for how much. She kept yelling the number at us in Greek....seriously couldn't understand...here we are...she hears us speaking English and continues to say it in Greek. We are baffled and begin to get all the cash we have prepared to shove it all at her......just then she gets up....walks around behind the counter and begins cleaning the floor...like she doesn't have a huge line of customers.......she then looks up and says plain as day 62.50 in English. WOW!!!!!!

So.....minus a few bumps, we made it to Olympia!

 

Europe 2014: Paros #2

Paros is just as beautiful as I imagined it and we fall more in love each passing day with its beautiful beaches, excellent food, relaxed sense of time, and kind people. The rest of our week was just as wonderful as the first part.

Wednesday, we relaxed after our fun-filled day with the tour. We slept in a bit, took a long breakfast and hung out around the grounds most of the day, including a small trip up to the market greeting the locals with "yasas" or "kali spera." We are finally getting the hang of our greetings! The best thing about today was the Greek cooking class hosted at our condo. Our condo has an attached cafe and the cooks and owners of the cafe/condo hosted this lovely affair. We (Adam & I) arrived promptly at 5 along with about 10 other folks. We were dressed with aprons and hair nets, washed up and got to work. We learned how to make traditional Greek bread from scratch, zucchini croquettes, and helped toss a salad. We watched and learned the art of moussaka, a traditional Greek lasagna-like dish with eggplant and beschemel sauce on top. We also helped cook beet soup and learned the art of vine leaf wrapping. All along the way we were served Souma (a distilled liquor like Ouzo) and Paros white wine.

After our preparation we all sat down and enjoyed our hard earned meal: homemade bread, beet soup, Anezina salad, zucchini croquettes, stuffed vine leaves, moussaka, and Greek yogurt dessert with dried fruits and nuts. We have all the recipes and more and can't wait to have Greek-themed dinner nights back in the states....any takers?

During the cooking class and meal we met an Australian couple on their honeymoon. We sat most of the rest of the night talking and enjoying a few drinks with them and had an amazing time....one of the most memorable moments of the trip thus far. Note: the stories of drinking with Australian men are correct....they can drink circles around us. Haha! They were an amazing couple and we hope that at some point in our future we can meet again .....maybe in Australia!

Thursday, Adam and I woke early, took the bus to Lefkes and hiked back to Dryos. This was probably a 7 to 10 km walk. We started off in Lefkes (the old capital) and had a lovely breakfast of Greek yogurt with fruit, homemade bread and marmalade. The homemade apricot marmalade was absolutely AMAZING! Great start to the day....also the Greek gentlemen at the cafe was positively adorable and kind as ever. We then took the Byzantine way to Prodromos a tiny little village with beautiful buildings.

We continued, stopped for a pastry and tea, and headed to the port town of Piso Livadi where we walked on the shore and enjoyed the harbor. We continued through a few other little towns and finally made it to golden beach where we had a lovely lunch of Greek salad and linguini. The view from the restaurant was priceless, looking out over a beautiful golden sand beach with the incredibly teal-blue ocean. We made it back to the condo to find that our fellow travelers (Teresa, Estela, and Rosa) had left early to visit Mykonos before their journey home. So, we had leftover vegetable wild rice and soup for dinner.

Friday was a bit cooler, but we were determined to go to the beach today. So we bundled up and headed to golden beach and the restaurant we stopped at the day before. Gramma came along and we sat and enjoyed the afternoon. The sun came out and we were able to lay out and soak up the beautiful sun while enjoying a perfectly peaceful day on the golden sands of Paros island. This is what I call relaxation. Adam was blissfully peaceful on his lounge chair with intermittent walks on the beautiful beach looking out at the beautiful Greek waters. It was a perfect day finished with a lovely stop at a local taverna for coffee on our way back to the condo. The woman made us traditional Greek coffee and a traditional frappe which is very popular here in Greece. A frappe is actually a certain type of instant coffee mixed with water and sugar and then blended in an old-style milkshake blender with milk added at the end. It has the most interesting frothy texture.....very interesting. The woman was engaging and sweet and even gave us a small gift bag of seashells she collected from the Dryos beach. It was a perfect day!


Today we leave our beloved Paros and head back to the mainland to Corinth, Nafplio, and Athens before heading to the island of Rhodes. It is hard to believe we've been in Europe almost 4 weeks. More adventures to come.

Family notes: while we have been gone, a few things have been going on at home......my Grandpa harden's sister (Aunt Care) passed away just before we left. My mom and dad had birthdays, my brother-in-law Austin had a birthday, my other brother-in-law Kyle had a birthday, my sister had knee surgery, my sister-in- law finished and graduated from Truman State University for speech pathology, and Aunt Care's husband ( Uncle Hershell) passed away 3 weeks to the day Aunt Care passed.

Traveling is a blessing and truly an experience but there are things you miss along the way. For those that have passed, we miss you and remember all the good moments we spent with you.....for those who have had birthdays, we look forward to celebrating with you upon our return, for Alanna, CONGRATULATIONS........for Kayla, know we prayed for you each day for a fast recovery! For all our family.....we miss you!

Love,

A&K